“The prophet of Futurism” , as he has been referred to, Thierry Mugler is an instinctive designer who never looks for inspiration. According to Thierry Mugler, “intellect is the servant of the spirit.”
He strongly feels that his clothing is modernistic and not futuristic. Clothes of today should have nothing to do with the past. They should create elegance with simple form and structure and add defined shape to the body, volume, form and simplicity.
When one has found a method of self-expression, one evolves with it. His clothing attracts a woman of strength and elan.
Thierry Mugler was born in Strasbourg, France in 1948. He made his first outfit for a girl friend at the age of 14. He joined a ballet company, the Opera du Rhin, then moved to Paris at 19. In 1968 he started working as a window dresser in a Parisian store “Gudule”. He visited London and Amsterdam. In 1970 Mugler worked as a free-lance designer.
In 1971 he returned to Paris. He showed his first collection for women called “Café de Paris”. Azzedine Alaia joined him and helped to design his creations, until the late 70’s.
In 1972 the design firm “Moonlighting” employed him as a designer designer for their Italian ready-to-wear.
In 1973 Mugler started designing under his own label in partnership with Alain Cardeuc. In 1976 Mugler showed a collection of Atric gold gathered boots. The “Punk” look was in, so Mugler applied this street look to his collection for 1977. In 1978 he showed broad-shouldered suits similar to the Military French coats, made in gabardine and leather.
In 1979 he launched his line for men.
During the 80’s, Thierry Mugler was part of a trend. Along with Montana and Alaia, Mugler depicted women as wicked Hollywood murderers, bondage retailers of illicit sex, or Mae West clones. He made his models wear narrow girded loins, tight skirts, wide aggressive shoulders, revealing corsetry worn as armour plating with a bruised face, amounting to a travesty of womanhood.
In 1984 Mugler celebrates 10 years of the existence of his house by organizing a “Super Paying Show”. This was a resounding success, 6,000 people assisted in the celebrations.
In 1985, he created the costumes for the musical “Emilie Jolie”.
In 1989 Mugler gave birth to the “New Age Man” look, his message was to relax and be refreshed by a new set of priorities and not to try to impress people. His women’s wear collection included a bright green Lycra bat-wing dress with Perspex wedge shoes.
1989-1990 Mugler presented a collection of dresses in acid colours, thigh-length boots, show-girl plumes, diamante bras, and a special group of outfits which took inspiration from the shape of cars of the time.
In 1990 several prominent designers created outfits based on famous paintings. Mugler took as his inspiration, a Picasso acrobat painted in 1930. In 1992 He launched his first perfume “Angel” In 1994 Thierry Mugler changes his salon to 4, Street of the Bears. In 1994 he also launched his “scratched” line with uneven hemlines and necklines.
Thierry Mugler is one of the few French designers to own their own factory, where dresses are made from prototypes perfected in the workshops. A good many of his designs are made to order, for the celebrities who make up his clientele list. In 1998, he was the first designer to create his virtual fashion show on the computer so that it can be seen on the net.
THE MUGLER STYLE
Mugler usually designs 2-piece outfits with a jacket feature, full sleeves, masculine cuts, emphasizing the waist and hips to create a perfect body. He often uses solid colours as a sculptor would. He often uses pointed angles on collars, hems, sleeves, waist and hips. He does use a lot of prints but at times uses patches of leather. He uses less of accessories and headgear. He tries to create drama into his clothing but usually the devil features, example gelled hair in the shape of horns.
Mugler also designs clothes for men but often uses bright colours for them like orange, yellow, etc. which is unusual for men’s clothing. Fabrics: Jersey, vinyl, Lycra, Gingham and Leather are his favourites. He says “Fashion is a movie. Every morning when you get dressed, you direct yourself”. He has earned a reputation for misogyny which he dislikes and says “when people say that my clothes are against women, it is because they are not easy to wear. You have to be in a good shape to wear my clothes and I like to design for such women – the clothes are more beautiful that way.”
Mugler’s quest is always to shape a perfect woman but underneath this glamorous exterior, his clothes are very well-structured and engineered, and of course sexy. Angel perfume toppled Chanel No. 5 from it’s number one slot in the french fragrance market in 1998. So in early 1999 Muglier created 5 innovative beauty products under the name of Secrets D’Angel. The range includes a face cream, two sprays for body, hair and face and two masks for face and hair.